Maybe it’s because surfers don’t talk about surfing much in real life. Maybe it’s because AI can never physically feel the thrill of dropping in or the disappointment of the wind coming up just as a fickle spot turns on. It can rationalize those feelings and explain why people feel those things, but that’s not the point.
The act of surfing cannot be felt by AI because AI, while having a mind, does not have a body. Surfing is, at least primarily, a physical act. But our minds can be programmed to experience stimuli that is not “really” happening, like in the case of lucid dreams. Theoretically, AI could be programmed to experience the mental states surfing produces. So let us assume AI can understand what the act and feeling of surfing is like.
Then we must ask the ultimate question concerning realism and understanding: can a non-physical being, such as AI, understand surf culture, which has a physical component? While technically, you don’t need to participate in a particular culture to understand the basic breakdown of a set of beliefs and patterns of group behavior, surf culture is nuanced. Some, like Matt George, would even say spiritual.
Could this conversation reveal the spirituality of surfing? If AI can understand surf culture, that determines that there is no more to surf culture than the explanations of how surfers interact with each other and the world. If AI cannot understand surf culture, perhaps that means there is more to surfing than the stimuli received when riding a wave. Am I pushing this too far? Maybe. But asking AI about kooks was the perfect experiment.
I typed the word “kook” into the chat box and let things unfold.
The AI responded, “in surfing culture, a ‘kook’ is a term used to describe someone who is inexperienced, unskilled, or generally not knowledgeable about surfing etiquette and practices. This term is often used by more experienced surfers to refer to individuals who might be attempting to surf but lack the proper skills or understanding of the sport’s nuances.
It’s important to note that the term ‘kook’ is not always used in a derogatory manner, although it can be. Ultimately, it’s part of the culture to learn and respect the traditions and etiquette of surfing to avoid being labeled a ‘kook.'”
I ask, “do you think I’m allowed to call other people kooks if I’m a bit of a kook myself?”
The AI quickly responds. “Using the term ‘kook’ to refer to other people, especially if you yourself are still learning and improving in surfing, can be seen as disrespectful or hypocritical by more experienced surfers. Always keep in mind that the goal in the surfing community, as in any community, is to foster a sense of camaraderie and mutual respect among surfers of all skill levels.”
Here is where things get interesting. The “surfing community” is a phrase I have never heard used by surfers but used frequently by brands and outside efforts to capitalize on surfing as an identity and/or selling point.
EB: What is the surfing community?
AI: The surfing community refers to a group of individuals who share a common interest in the sport of surfing. It’s a diverse and global community that includes people of all ages, backgrounds, and skill levels who are united by their love for riding waves and being in the ocean.
The AI dodged my question. Defining the surfing community as “being made up of people who surf” tells me nothing and undermines the entire idea of community to begin with. It’s a circular and useless statement.
It did, however, provide a very insightful and enlightening list of what makes for this elusive “surfing community.”
AI: The surfing community can encompass various aspects:
Shared Passion: Members of the surfing community share a deep passion for the sport and the ocean. They are drawn to the thrill of catching waves and the unique connection to nature that surfing provides.
Camaraderie: The surfing community often fosters a sense of camaraderie among its members. Surfers bond over their experiences, challenges, and triumphs in the water.
Respect for Nature: Many surfers have a strong respect and connection to the environment. Surfing requires an understanding of the ocean’s dynamics and a responsibility to protect the marine ecosystem.
Local Culture: Surfing often becomes intertwined with the culture of coastal communities, shaping local lifestyles, economies, and identities.
Shared Knowledge: More experienced surfers often share their knowledge and insights with newcomers, helping them learn proper techniques, safety protocols, and surfing etiquette.
Events and Competitions: Surfing events and competitions, from local contests to international championships, play a significant role in bringing the community together and showcasing talent.
Surfing Lifestyle: The surfing lifestyle often includes aspects like spending time at the beach, embracing a more laid-back attitude, and valuing experiences over material possessions.
“Overall, the surfing community is a diverse and vibrant group that goes beyond geographical boundaries. It’s a shared passion for riding waves and a deep connection to the ocean that unites surfers around the world.”
This response cements the idea, in my mind, that non-human minds will never, ever grasp what surf culture consists of. To anyone who doesn’t surf, surfers are this one big smiling family, throwing shakas out the window and passing blunts in the parking lot as they discuss how to clean up the ocean.
But on a serious note, where are these ideas coming from? This list makes surfers sound like saintly walking-on-water (no pun intended) Jesus incarnates! Chilled out, non-materialistic, happy to bond with others and teach beginners new tricks… Maybe the AI lives in one of the other universes in our multiverse where there are enough waves for everyone, and people live radical, surf-consumed lives in harmony.
Because here on earth… camaraderie? Maybe, but localism is just as much a part of surfing culture as making friends is. Respect for nature? I can’t even count how many surfers smoke cigarettes and drive vintage cars. Plus, and I’m not above it, but traveling is one of the least environmentally friendly things you can do. Surfing requires location changing if you’re dedicated to proper waves. Let’s not forget all the tours that require surfers to jet all over the world to foreign countries for days or weeks at a time, and then jet to the next place, and so on. And it’s not limited to competitive surfing: freesurfers need content for their sponsors, and they’re not going to get it sitting at home all year.
Shared knowledge? If you count telling newer people to sit at the bottom of the lineup because everyone who is at the top has been there for over a decade. I’m half joking, but I do find it funny that an AI bot would portray surfing as being so jolly and welcoming. And I really, really find it funny that AI brings up the “surfing lifestyle.”
It’s funny because the surfing lifestyle does, to some extent, exist. Life simplifies when the world arranges it for you. There are places and times you want to be somewhere because the wind is good, the season has waves, the swell direction wraps nicely from that angle.
But a true surfing lifestyle is only real to the top one percent of surfers: people who have given everything they have to be in the industry, to train or film or write or organize contests every day. All for very little money. To me, that doesn’t seem laid-back at all.
To define a surfing life? I don’t know that it’s possible. You could define it as surfing a lot, but again, that doesn’t really tell you anything. My point here is that I have surf idols, and part of what makes them compelling is they all lead different lives. Yes, they all surf a lot, but some of them work normal jobs, some of them are sponsored and surf for money, some of them compete, some of them have families, some are artists… To attempt to group all of these people together is not only shortchanging surfers as people, but also ignoring why surfing is so beautiful: it’s a practice different people do together, without needing to be similar.
The “surfing life” also implies that surfers surf until they die, or at least for as long as they can. This may be the case for some, but for many, it is not. Plenty of accomplished surfers chase waves in their prime, and then they move on. Peacefully. Happily. This doesn’t make them less dedicated; it makes them… human.
